The Exposome || Antioxidants
Our Exposome series has detailed the various factors involved in the extrinsic ageing of our skin. This week, we are delighted to reveal one of skincare’s answers to the Exposome: Antioxidants! Antioxidants are substances that fight free radicals in the skin and when you harness the power of this scientifically proven skincare ingredient you benefit by moving from the fast lane of ageing to the slow lane. To understand the role of antioxidants in our skin, we will need a very quick chemistry lesson - we hope this doesn’t bring back Leaving Cert nightmares!
Free radicals are produced as natural by-products of cellular metabolism that occur in our bodies, however they are also formed as a result of exposure to environmental stressors such as UV radiation, High Energy Visible radiation, Infrared radiation, pollution, alcohol, and smoking. Free radicals are highly unstable molecules that are incredibly reactive. Their interaction with the skin triggers an inflammatory cascade that accumulates in what we all try to avoid in skincare and in life - oxidative stress and mitochondrial dysfunction causing premature ageing and damage. This not only relates to our skin but to all aspects of our health.
In order to fortify our skin and to prevent the formation of free radicals and damage to our skin, our body produces antioxidants. Antioxidants are substances that can help to protect cells and molecules from oxidative stress. They act by gifting these unstable molecules with an electron in order to stabilise them once again and restore balance.
Luckily, we naturally produce antioxidants in our bodies and skin (though people who have acne are known to have a lesser production of these helpful substances). Although we produce them ourselves, given the world in which we now find ourselves, with greater levels of pollution, stronger sunrays, and stress laden lifestyles, our lovely bodies cannot keep up with the level of oxidative stress that is occurring around us.
Antioxidants are powerhouses that play various roles in our system. Antioxidants in our skin bolster our SPF in order to increase our skin’s photoprotection and reduce UV damage in our DNA. Thymine dimer formation, one kind of damage to DNA caused by UV exposure that can lead to cancer, is reduced by antioxidants. Similarly, a collagen degrading enzyme, known as MMP-9, is reduced by antioxidants. These mighty molecules also enhance our immunity by increasing the production of Langerhans cells within our skin.
Antioxidants truly do Trojan work to protect our skin from premature ageing! However, as we previously mentioned, our bodies’ production of antioxidants can no longer keep up with the excess of oxidation caused by our environment and lifestyles. And so, to help our skin and bodies fight free radical damage, we recommend aiding ourselves with additional antioxidants in our diet and skincare. Read about the antioxidants you can add to your diet here (skin nutrients article).
Adding antioxidants into our skincare routine just takes one simple step, however it is a step that requires consistency. Unlike sunscreen that is effective immediately once applied, antioxidant levels in the skin take time to build, and can be lost in a matter of days. To build and maintain antioxidant levels in the skin, we recommend adding an antioxidant to your morning routine and ensuring to apply it every morning.
Antioxidants come in various forms in skincare, and choosing which is best for you will depend on your individual skin’s needs and a consultation is bets to point you in the right direction. Here we break down some of the most well known antioxidant ingredients.
Vitamin C
This skincare ingredient certainly has the best marketing when it comes to antioxidants! Vitamin C is an aqueous based substance that works by reaching into the cell in order to protect our DNA. The most potent form of Vitamin C we find in skincare is L-Ascorbic acid, however it is also quite an unstable ingredient and can spoil easily so formulation is very important.
Vitamin C is a great choice for those with pigmented or pigment prone skin. It may not always be the best choice for those with acne or rosacea or sensitive skin as it is very potent. We love Skinceuticals CE Ferulic and Phloretin CF for your daily dose of Vitamin C.
Vitamin E
Another wonderful option in the realm of antioxidants is Vitamin E, an amazing option for dry skin types.
Ferulic Acid
Ferulic acid is a phytochemical compound found in cell walls that, among other roles, protects plants from the harmful effects of UV damage. Amazingly, when formulated in skincare, it has the same function in our skin! It also has the incredible ability to stabilise other antioxidants in a formulation. When combined with Vitamin C, it not only stabilises but also enhances the effectiveness of the powerhouse ingredient.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is another versatile ingredient, in that along with its antioxidant properties, it also enhances our skin’s natural barrier function, has anti-inflammatory effects and reduces hyperpigmentation. It’s a wonderful product to add into your routine if suited to your skin. This is a fantastic choice for acne/rosacea prone skin types or anyone woth sensitive skin.
Green Tea
A staple ingredient used for its antioxidant effects for centuries across Asia, green tea is being formulated in more and more skincare products to protect and fortify our skin from free radical damage.
As always, skincare seeks to enhance the natural processes that occur in our bodies. By adding antioxidants to our morning skincare routines, we protect and repair our skin from free radical damage, keeping our skin healthy and fortified as we age.
