Sunscreen || Mistakes to Avoid
Despite the unreliable Irish summers, it is still in fact important to be sun safe in Ireland! It is often assumed that the sun doesn’t work as well on our little island as in other parts of the globe, however the Irish Cancer Society found that 90% of the days between April and September, we receive Ultraviolet (UV) rays that are strong enough to cause skin damage (1). This includes the cloudy days. Outside of these months UVA is still present and permeating through even glass so there remains a reason to protect yourself year round. Though the use of sunscreen has improved in the last decade (an Irish Cancer Society survey in 2006 found that 40% of adults didn’t wear sunscreen at all), many people in Ireland still do not wear sunscreen as recommended by formulators and dermatologists. We’d love to share some skincare mistakes we see in-clinic and how best to avoid them.
Understanding UV rays
Ultraviolet radiation comes in two main forms (UVA and UVB). To avoid long-term sun damage it is important to protect ourselves from both.
UVA radiation consists of long wavelengths that penetrate the deeper layers of our skin. These rays are responsible for long-term damage to the skin, including skin ageing and wrinkles, as well as some forms of skin cancer. UVB radiation represents shorter waves that penetrate the upper layers of our skin. These cause short term damage such as burns, however this short term damage is more likely to lead to skin cancer.
To prevent both forms of sun damage, we need to look for sunscreens that contain both UVA and UVB blockers. These are labelled as “broad spectrum” sunscreens. We recommend aiming for SPF 50 (or at least SPF 30+) and looking for high UVA ratings alongside this.
Common Sunscreen Mistakes
Missing eyelids and lips
When applying sunscreen, people often forget to apply it to the most delicate parts of the face – our eyelids and lips! These areas have thinner skin and so each time we apply sunscreen, we should also be applying the same to these areas. If you avoid applying protection to your eyelids due to it stinging your eyes, we suggest you find another sunscreen on the market – thankfully the EU has a wide range of approved UV filters that don’t cause the dreaded eye sting! Mineral screens can be helpful for this issue.
If the thought of applying sunscreen to your lips sounds less than delicious, consider regularly using a lip balm that contains SPF. Ensure to use oe with at least SPF 30. A lovely example is La Roche Posay Anthelios Lip Stick SPF 50+.
Not reapplying often enough
Many sunscreens claim to last for up to 8 hours, or assert that they are waterproof for over two hours. Unfortunately, despite marketing claims, our sunscreen is not reliable after it has been on our skin for 2 hours. In that time it’s been working hard to absorb and reflect UV in the atmosphere, it may also have been removed if we’ve been swimming, or can be sweated off or rubbed off by clothing. To ensure you get the full protection of your sunscreen when you’re out and about, reapply it to any exposed areas of skin every two hours, or after sweating, being in water, or towel drying. Failing to reapply will increase your chances of sun ageing, sunburn, and risk of skin cancer.
Not using enough sunscreen
The sun protection factor (SPF) in our sunscreen is not only determined by the ingredients within it, but also by the amount of product that is used. Putting a few spots of factor 50 on our face will actually not give us the protection of the indicated factor.
To get the full protection advertised, we should be using 1.25ml (1/4 teaspoon) on our face, and the same on our neck and ears. This equates to about two finger lengths for our face, and another two for our neck and ears. On our body we should be applying 2mg per centimetre, which roughly translates to a shot glass or two tablespoons of sunscreen for our body.
The reason we need this large amount of sunscreen is due to the landscape of our skin. Under the microscope, our skin consists of many peaks and valleys, and in order to receive adequate protection, the sunscreen must cover not only the peaks, but also the lower valleys. Applying a generous amount of sunscreen will achieve this.
Some sunscreens are more difficult to spread than others, or give our skin a chalky look, or white caste, and so it is tempting to use a smaller amount to make the finish look better. There are often reviews on these chalkier sunscreens proclaiming that “a little goes a long way” but this couldn’t be further from the truth. We need plenty of sunscreen to protect ourselves. If the one you’re using isn’t easy to spread, try to find one that glides more gracefully!
Thinking SPF in makeup is adequate protection
The concept of SPF in makeup is perfect – reducing our morning routine down to fewer steps while protecting us from the sun would be ideal, however the concept hasn’t been executed to the optimal standard as of yet.
As mentioned above, we need 2.5ml of sunscreen on our face and neck – if we were to use that much foundation, we’d be giving ourselves a less than gorgeous orange glow, let alone the tears that would be shed by our pores and purses!
Aside from this, the UV filters typically seen in makeup are UVB filters, meaning that they do not protect from skin ageing and therefore are not considered “broad spectrum”. So don’t fall into the trap of reading “SPF 50” and thinking you are covered. Unless it states that it has “broad spectrum” cover you are unlikely to be protected from UVA.
Not opting for iron oxide sunscreens when prone to pigmentation
People who are prone to hyperpigmentation, such as those who experience melasma or those who are left with dark spots after a pimple has healed, often don’t realise that sunscreens with iron oxide are better for their skin type (i.e tinted sunscreens). Visible light (blue light) is a known trigger for pigmentation and is additional to UV induced pigmentation. A study in 2020 found that these filters better protect against visible light-induced pigmentation compared to sunscreen without iron oxides (2).
People with darker skin tones, notably from Fitzpatrick skin type III and higher are more likely to be prone to pigmentation. Luckily, iron oxide makes sunscreens tinted, making them easier to blend for darker skin types. One of our favourites here is the Mesoestetic Melan130 pigment control. This is so popular in Australia, where the sunscreen regulations are incredibly stringent.
Not taking the time to find the right sunscreen for you
There are thousands of sunscreens available to choose from, with brands sporting sunscreen for different activities, skin types, finishes, etc. This can be overwhelming! It can be tempting to pick whichever SPF is on sale and use that, however it might not be right for you, and it could feel like a chore to apply.
There are so many SPFs to choose from as there is such a variety in preference when it comes to sunscreen. There is no one perfect sunscreen, rather you should use the sunscreen that you enjoy applying every day. Invest time in finding the right sunscreen for you, that has a high sun protection factor, is perfect for your skin type, applies gracefully to your skin and gives you the finish that you are looking for – whether that is matte, dewy, tinted, or sheer.
I keep a “wardrobe of sunscreens” which allows me to choose different ones depending on the day ahead. I like to use Heliocare Gel Oil Free when I am heading to the gym in the morning or out for a walk. I reach for Alumier Clear Shield when my skin is feeling dull and lacklustre because it adds a lovely glow. I favour Intradermology Synergy 6 for under makeup as it creates a smooth base.
Finding the right sunscreen for you will take away the “chore” of reapplying, and instead make it a moment of self-care that you can give yourself throughout the day. Now that we know that the sun’s influence on our skin accounts for up to 80% of skin ageing, you can appreciate that it is the hardest working part of your skincare regime (3).
(1) Irish Cancer Society: Skin Cancer Myths https://www.cancer.ie/cancer-information-and-support/cancer-types/skin-cancer/skin-cancer-myths
(2) Dumbuya H, Grimes PE, Lynch S, Ji K, Brahmachary M, Zheng Q, Bouez C, Wangari-Talbot J. Impact of Iron-Oxide Containing Formulations Against Visible Light-Induced Skin Pigmentation in Skin of Color Individuals. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020 Jul 1;19(7):712-717. doi: 10.36849/JDD.2020.5032. PMID: 32726103.
(3) Friedman O. Changes associated with the aging face. Facial Plast Surg Clin North Am. 2005;13(3):371-80.